An hour before the NY Giants step in and wallop their way through Super Bowl XLVI, it seemed appropriate to open a big, bold bottle of bad-ass vino: the 1997 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon.

(Why I’m watching the Lingerie Bowl on MTV2 in the meantime, I have no idea…but these ladies hit hard!)

Go get em, New York.

Riesling Spätlese Feinherb, Leiwener Laurentiuslay, St Urbans-Hof, 2008.

Happy Holidays, everyone.

In happier times: Pancho and Jay (pic courtesy of Jim's Loire)

Jay Miller is out at Wine Advocate.  Claiming innocence in a payola scandal that has rifled through the rolling hills of Spain and the wine community as a whole, Mr. Miller has stepped down from his role as editor of Spain, South America, and the Pacific Northwest.  It’s a fascinating story of claims of strong-arm tactics, little-known-wine-regions looking to ascend to the world stage and the power of the blogosphere.

Englishman/blogger/flame shirt-wearing/wine sleuth Jim Budd (pic courtesy of blog.winetravelguides.com/)

The story in a nutshell?  A string of emails released by blogger Jim Budd of Jim’s Loire, supposedly blew open the doors on some of the behind-the-scenes negotiations between Pancho Campo and the D.O. Vinos de Madrid to arrange for Jay Miller, internationally acclaimed wine critic, to stop in and taste some wines in the hope he’ll shine his big old spotlight on some of Spain’s newest vino talent.  Such passive-aggressive, near-thuggish comments were used to sell the deal as “Private visits off the set agenda, as this would be, rarely take place, and not for a price below 40,000 euros. The fact that Jay has agreed to stay 2 days more, and for half the usual price, is a miracle and an opportunity that Madrid will find it difficult to have again.”

There’s big money involved–to the tune of € 20000 ($25,980.77)–so these allegations aren’t simply over peanuts.  Wine Advocate is one of the more respected chapels of wine writing and this threatens its principles to the core.  This is not likely to go away any time soon…

A number of wine bloggers picked up on the story right quick and now its shot straight up the media ladder.  As a beverage writer/blogger, myself, I’m stoked to see the community ignited by a passion to get to the truth behind the accusations but it’s become a white hot pile-on.  Are the accusations overblown? –”Wait, Miss Abigail, now that you have our attention, WHAT did you see Mr. Proctor do?”  In fact, I’ve been a little surprised by all the attention the Wine Advocate scandal has been getting lately.  I guess it makes sense in the grand scheme of celebrity hierarchy, though: we love to build them up, and then we love even more to tear them down.  And if the Advocate is going to sit on the catbird seat of wine criticism, then they’re going to have to expect to be under the microscope…especially in today’s age of information saturation.

A round-up of just a few of the internet articles dealing with the scandal:

• NY Times: “A Parker Reviewer Departs After Questions About Payments” by Eric Asimov.
• Jim’s Loire: “Campogate: No Pay – No Jay ” by Jim Budd.
• Vinography:” ‘Big Jay’ Miller Departs Wine Advocate in Wake of Scandal” by Alder Yarrow.
• Decanter.com: “Jay Miller’s resignation: The background” by Decanter staff.
• The Gray Report: “Dear Robert Parker: You MUST address the latest Jay Miller scandal” by W. Blake Gray.
• Terroirist: “The Jay Miller Scandal Gets Weirder” by David White.
• Gawker: “Professional Wine Snob in Booze Junket Payola Scandal” by Hamilton Nolan.

You want more?  Simply google: “Jay Miller Scandal” and it’s on.  And so, even in the world of rarified wine criticism, we get to see what happens when the media blows up in a maelstrom of drama.  We’ll see how it all pans out…

Will a nugget of gold await Jay Miller?  Or will he be washed away in the tailings of time?  Stay tuned for next week’s episode of “Media Rush: Wine Scandal!”

Jay Miller (courtesy of 1winedude.com)

St. Nicholas de Bourgueil (100% Cabernet Franc), La Mine, Yannick Amarault, 2008, Loire Valley

Southampton Publick House, Vic (antique porter aged in oak), New York

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge (100% Pinot Noir), Phillipe Colin, 2008, Côte de Beaune

Our apartment is filled to the brim with boxes of our belongings as we prepare to move out for bigger digs down the block.  Got an organic chicken roasting in the oven and some cauliflower and potatoes on deck.  What better time than now to crack some damn bubbly?

Based in the North Fork of Long Island, Sparkling Pointe is the only producer in Long Island specifically producing sparkling wines.  And right about now, their Cuvée Carnaval is hitting the spot.

Mannie Berk of the Rare Wine Co. held a wee little Madeira dinner tonight at Hearth—and by “wee” I mean the “sickest line-up of old wines I’ve ever beheld in person.”

I stood by somewhat slack-jawed as he pulled these incredibly old bottles out of his knapsack like a kid unloads his lunch box and Thermos at the elementary school lunch table.  (I’m going to guess Mannie’s mother didn’t pack him these, though.  And, sadly, my mother never packed me a Madeira over fifty years old…but we’re a frugal family).

Pictured from left to right:  1910 Leacock Sercial Madeira, 1928 Leacock Verdelho Madeira EEL, and the 1898 Henriques & Henriques Boal Solera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IRDT_0u9jY

I found this clip today while rifling through the videos from our Europe trip.  Here, we sit in France’s Southern Rhone Valley on the famed hill of Hermitage.

**Wikipedia’s post about the history of the hill:  “According to legend, the Knight Gaspard de Stérimberg returned home wounded in 1224 from the Albigensian Crusade and was given permission by the Queen of France to build a small refuge to recover in, where he remained living as a hermit.”

Thus, ‘Hermitage’ came to be.  But what’s important in the wine world is that, here, Syrah reigns and transmits some of the best terroir in the world.  (Just take note of the care taken: each vine is laboriously staked to the ground to survive the fierce winds of the mistral).

And for a mere moment in the blip of time, we sat amongst its vines, giddy and thankful for the privilege.  Gaspard was smiling down on us…

Over the course of two hours, I poured eight different hard ciders from around the world and circled back to illustrate how the New York cider producers fit into the cider world at large.

Here’s what we tasted:

1. Warwick Valley Winery, Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider, New York (4.5% abv)
2. Sarasola Sydre, Natural Apple Cidre, Basque Region, Spain (6.0% abv)
3. Westons, Stowford Press Export, England (6.0% abv)
4. Etienne Dupont, Cidre Bouché Brut du Normandie, 2009, France (5.0% abv)
5. Farnum Hill, Extra Dry Sparkling, New Hampshire (7.5% abv)
6. J.K.’s Scrumpy, Farmhouse Organic Hard Cider, Michigan (6% abv)
7. Eve’s Cidery, Northern Spy, New York (10% abv)
8. Warwick Valley Winery, Doc’s Draft Framboise, New York (5.5% abv)

I’ve written a few geeky posts on cider in the past, so if you’re so inclined to dig deeper into the apple’s core, check these out:

• “NY Cider Week: Flood the Torpedoes” NY Cork Report (10/11/11)
• “A Cider Laboratory in a Chocolate Factory” (3/2/11)
• “Ciders: How do you Like Them Apples?” (11/6/09)

And for those of you in New York, starting this Sunday, you’re in for a treat.  Throughout the state, you’ll be able to sink your teeth into this awesome (yet oft misunderstood) beverage.  Check out this list for participating bars, restaurants and events.

No worms allowed (seriously)

After months of hard work, followed by weeks of stress and feeling like our world had been placed between the plates of a slowly tightening vice, we are coming up for air and the new Terroir Murray Hill is prepared to open its doors.  Minutes ago, I was fortunate enough to drink the first beer (and wine) through the system.

Alone in the bar, I paused, held the glass up to to the heavens and took a moment to pause and reflect.  This Saturday night, Terroir Murray Hill opens to the masses.  But tonight, the first liquids flowed from the system.  In homage to my Colorado roots, I poured a tall, cold one of Great Divide Rumble Oak Aged IPA.  And, damn, it tasted good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4ESTcpSzD0

On March 29th, 2011, Kat and I landed in Paris. For the next 93 days, we wandered through the backroads of Europe on a wine and beer journey we had dreamed about for years. While there are many lenses we can see this trip through (and trust us, with over 1500 video clips on our hard drive, there are more coming), this one takes a look from a wine geek’s perspective.

Originally created for the Wine Spectator 2011 video contest, it features music from the awesome local NYC band, The Black Hollies.

"Let me guess. Randall sent you, didn't he?"

Le Pousseur (100% Syrah), Bonny Doon Vineyard, 2008, Central Coast
(13.5% abv)

There is something transporting about this wine, like being wrapped up in a harlot’s velvet shawl.

You enter the room somewhat willingly, thinking you know what you’re in store for, wanting to keep it light and fun, only to find your mind and emotions wrapped up in a deeper draw and the feeling of hot attraction coursing through your veins. This courtesan is much bigger than you can handle. You run from the room, only to get outside, take in a breath of fresh air and decide you MUST return.

This is not the type of wine I was expecting to feel this way about. Call it “single vineyard snobbery,” if you will, but I lowered my expectations when I read “Central Coast Syrah.” It could be from anywhere there–the Central Coast is a huge place. But then again, these grapes are in the able hands of Randall Grahm…and he knows his Syrah.  It’s going to be something authentic.

The color of the Bonny Doon Le Pousseur 2008 is near opaque, pouring a dark, purplish red. On the nose, a haunting, deep aroma of black berries, spicy brambles and a note of black cherry cream. I was drawn so deeply in, I found my nostrils a bit stung by the heat of the alcohol. But it only proved to spur me on…

This hare will be perfect with Le Pousseur. You just wait.

On the palate, I was caressed by a velvety mouthfeel and I soon found myself feeling like Tom Sawyer, seduced by the fresh, tart huckleberry pie cooling in the window.  Mmmm….so delicious.  Must have.  Must steal and run off into the woods with. It tantalized me with this tartness. Mouth-watering fruit with a backbone of strength holding it firm and supported.  The tannins are rich and chewy, the flavors layered.

This is a wine that would make Mark Twain proud.  In his words: “Sometimes too much to drink is barely enough.”

(*Editor’s note: this wine was a press sample)

Your ticket to the top: Pretty Things Jack D'Or Saison and Bortolotti Lagrein Spumante Rosato Brut

If you look around at the wine, beer and spirits media, the “Summer Drinking Recommendations” are ubiquitous.

They’re like Ray Bans and Katy Perry songs–turn to the left, you got em.  Step out of the subway?  Bam!  Two people wearing Ray Bans greet you at the top of the stairs.

Ahh shit! Biebs is rockin the Bans?! Now, I GOTS to get me some!

And walk into any bar, store, gym, club, hot dog hut, nail salon, barber shop, BMW dealership, emergency room, animal pound, tattoo parlor, yoga studio or McDonald’s and you’ll either hear “Firework,” “Last Friday Night (T.G.I.F)” or “Extraterrestrial“.  Its a sickness, people!  We’re being brainwashed!  At any moment, Katy will step forward with her strategies for balancing the budget and finding harmony between the Democrats and the Tea Party…and by God, it will work!

So, that’s my long-winded way of saying that its time to throw my hat in the ring.  Keep it simple: there are two things to drink this summer.  Two things to bring to a baby shower.  Two things that will please any crowd, any refined drinker.  Two things that will make you cool.  Two things that will get you laid:  Saison and Sparkling.

To quickly break it down:  Saison is a Belgian farmhouse style ale.  After almost disappearing into the ethers of time, Saison is now one of the hottest styles in the craft beer world.  Typically low in alcohol (somewhere between 5-8% abv), they often are pale in color (slightly orange or sometimes golden) and have a fruity, spicy character with a zip of tartness, finishing dry.  (Hot damn, I’m thirsty just writing that).

"You will buy my album and you will drink Saison and Sparkling. NOW."

Sparkling is wine with bubbles.  Yep, that’s it.  But, oh, the range.  Dry, sweet, taut, fat, round, lean, simple or complex; if its got bubbles, its perfect.  And if you haven’t got your mind around the pink ones yet, get your head out of the past.  There is flavor there, my friend.  Embrace the Rosé.  Hell, I’m wearing my pink panties right now in solidarity!  Well, okay they’re more like boxers…and they’re more like blue…but you get it.

Two things:  Saison and Sparkling.  It’s the new summer anthem.

(I took this picture on June 13, 2011 at 12:52 pm)

Tonight, I finally caught up on my Tour de France 2011 footage.  Watching Cadel Evans fly by the Arc De Triomphe on the way to becoming the first Australian to win the Tour was a moving sight.

(It was further enhanced by a couple of German friends left over from the Summer of Riesling concert:  Trocken, Keller, 2010, Rheinhessen  and Schloss Johannisberg, 2009, Rheingau).

After his brave rides up the L’Alpe d’Huez and the Col du Galibier, Cadel should have have cracked a bottle of one of these at the summit to share with the local marmots.  Marmots love a good acid-bomb.