Sweating like a beast, but on top of the world (click to enlarge pic)

Halfway up the climb. You can see how steep this f'er really is.

One of the most famous vineyards in all of Germany, it is a perfectly south-facing slope situated above the town of Bernkastel in the Mosel River Valley (in fact, I’ve written about it before).

The Bernkasteler Doctor is 8.1 acres in size and is incredibly steep; all work must be done by hand.  The story goes, that in the 13th century, the Archbishop of Trier was in this area when he became deathly ill. After countless remedies didn’t work, he was poured Riesling from a humble flask from this vineyard and was cured. From then on, it became known as “The Doctor”. Today, it is the most expensive agricultural land in all of Germany.

Most vineyard doors to it are ornate and LOCKED. We had to find a back way up...

It was a frickin beast. By the time we reached the top, I was covered in sweat. But my grin went from ear to ear.

The Doctor vineyard is so steep that all picking is done by hand and a wired-trolley system is used to carry grapes from it's slopes (pic courtesy of "The World Atlas of Wine")

Herr Paul Grieco touted the wines for this tasting as “the greatest Riesling from the greatest Riesling vineyard in all of Germany”.

And, I may be mistaken, but I believe he silently wept numerous times throughout (no doubt with at least 5 grams of acid and 10 grams of residual sugar per tear, because that’s how he rolls.)

Like lemmings gathered at the edge of a cliff with naive anticipation, we filled the confines of Terroir EVil last week to take part in one of the most special Riesling tastings to hit Gotham in ages.  We are nearing the end of this year’s Summer of Riesling and were joined by many of the valiant conquerors of the Summer of Riesling 2010 Wine Bar Crawl.

The Bernkasteler Doctor is only 8.1 acres in size but it’s place in the wine world is legendarily grand.  In the 13th century, the Archbishop of Trier was in this area of the Mosel Valley when he bacame deathly ill.  After countless cures didn’t work, he was poured Riesling from a humble flask from this vineyard and was cured.  From then on, it became known as “The Doctor”.  Today, it is the most expensive agricultural land in all of Germany.

Led by Barbara Rundquist-Müller, who currently oversees the vineyard, we were led through seven Rieslings and experienced the “trilogy” that Barbara says make these wines truly special: minerality, fruit and acidity.  The vines are pre-Phylloxeria—their roots travel more than ten meters down and are therefore protected from the louse’s jaws—and clock in at 80-100 years old.

TASTING NOTES

1.  Riesling Kabinett, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 2008, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

Barbara described it as having the “charm of youth”.  Light straw in color, giving off notes of fresh stone fruits.  On the palate, a vibrant, peppery acidity carried tasty notes of pear juice.  The blast of acidity felt like a quick hailstorm of pleasure moving through my mouth.

2.  Riesling Kabinett, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 2005, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

Light gold in color, we begin to see some of the more classic notes this vineyard is known for.  A buttery, salty lanolin on the nose with a hint of petrol creeping around the corner.  Again, notes of concentrated, canned pear juice, but, man, that acid was a different beast.  It sent a cleansing sensation from the tip of the tongue to the back of the throat, and then, as if on lurching ship, it came rifling forward again back to the tip of the tongue.

3.  Riesling Spatlese, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 2003, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

Due to a very hot vintage, Barbara called this the “Dolly Parton” wine—a lot up front, not a lot in back.  Light/medium gold in color, with rich honey and caramelized apples rising from the glass in waves.  Reminded me of Jelly Bellies candy.  On the palate, it had the flavor of red Macintosh apples rolled in caramel and drizzled with peach syrup.

4.  Riesling Auslese, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 2003, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

Medium gold in color with hints of amber.  Tangerine, citrus and candied fruit on the nose.  The flavors on the palate confirmed the nose and were INTENSE, with a rich, unctuous body and a long, lasting finish.

5.  Riesling Auslese, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 2001, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

2001 was a spectacular year for German Riesling and put them back on the map (with skyrocketing prices to boot).  Light tawny in color with the look of golden honey.  On the nose, a staggeringly complex array of candied nectarines topped off with notes of kerosene and nail polish.  The rich aroma seemed akin to that which would arise from Aladdin’s lamp.  Paul made a reference to eating the famed Ortolan bird, where one would cover the head in a cloak to trap the aromas and to hide themselves from God’s watchful eye as you sunk your teeth into its forbidden flesh.  Extraordinary acidity on the palate with notes of peaches rolled in parafin.

6.  Riesling Auslese, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 1959, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

Surprisingly still eliciting some golden color, the 1959 gave off hypnotic notes of old mint chapstick, campfire smoke piercing through heavy winter air and notes of spice.  On the palate, cedar and earth came forward, mixed with fall cooking spice and kerosene.  The acidity was still lively and filled the wine.  A joyful, medicinal, evergreen note carried the long finish.

7.  Riesling Beerenauslese, Bernkasteler Doctor, Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Muller Burggraef, 2006, Mosel-Saar Ruwer

A surprise addition to the lineup, Barbara said it was “still a child”.  Upon tasting, I left my human form and was flung through the cosmos, seeming to return an hour later in a resounding crash.  Such purity of fruit—the apricots seemed to be singing from the glass like angels in a choir.  Paul accurately called the wine “deafening”.  The finish held me in a transfixing embrace for so long I could have watched Casablanca from start to finish and still experienced it.

The cellar for the vineyard is carved from the slate rock and lies 30 meters below the vines themselves.  It is here that I wish my body to be entombed upon my passing…preferably near a barrel of the 2006 Beerenauslese.

Barbara Rundquist-Müller

Home to the longest, uninterrupted stretch of quality vineyards in Europe, the Mosel River is home to Rieslings on such a level of spectacularness that I often place a bib on myself to prevent the drool from soiling my shirt.

The Mosel flows for 150 miles through Germany and, along most of it’s length, is home to sheer cliffs and sweepingly grandiose steep vineyards that house ancient vines which cling for dear life and fight for every last ray of sunshine.

But don’t let my ceaseless drivel do the convincing, because I’ll shut up and let the pictures below speak for themselves.

This is God’s Country, my friends, and the land at the end of the rainbow for any wine lover.

Just dump me at the bend of the river with a glass and a hunk of bread.  I’ll be fine for weeks.  Teetering on the edge of the world and living on sheer acidity.

Seriously. I wanna be a riesling vine in Loosen’s vineyard…plant me on the hillside in the sun and leave me to fight for nutrients and life.  Then send someone to gently pluck off my fat grapes at the end of summer.  Oh, and prune me real nice in the winter…