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Yes, Dave, the Veal Carpaccio & Truffles with a nice, cool glass of Arneis will be fantastic.  But there WILL be consequences.

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Today marks our 1-month anniversary on the road.  Staying in for the night with a wee spread of Piedmontese vittles.

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First night in Piedmont. And what do we order w/ dinner? BEER. And not just any beer. Microbrew made by prisoners! (I’m not joking)

Venetian express train (all photos by Kat Bryant)

It rose out of the lagoon.

Sometime around the 4th or 5th century, a resilient group of people had been pushed to the brink.  Exhausted and worn thin by constant foreign invasions, they decided to relocate to the marshy islands far out on the water.

And thus, Venice was born. And the most magical city on the planet came to be.

Emerging from the train three days ago, I rounded the corner and found myself a mere 100 meters from the canal’s edge. It was a staggering sight I will never forget. It is a world of water, steeped in art and history. Centuries of human devotion to this strange, surreal floating city can be felt on every brick at your feet, every wall at your side (see photo slideshow at bottom).

As I ate my breakfast this morning and looked down on the boats zipping up and down the canal, I had a revelation. Everything before my eyes, and I mean everything—the streets, the flowers, the cups, the spoons, the doors, the houses themselves, even the peopleeverything was brought in by boat. And it has been this way from the beginning. It is the only way; for water is their master. Man is forced to kneel at nature’s feet.

That connection does something to a person’s chemistry. The people of Venice seem hard-wired to the rhythms of the lapping waters heard all around. There are no cars, no bikes. The wheel is a damned, evil tool of the devil. And don’t even mention the term ‘rush hour’ or you may be tied to the marble poles at the Piazza San Marco and drawn and quartered. The four pieces of your body dragged to different parts of the city to serve as an example. (Yes, I have a vivid imagination, but yes, they did used to do this to criminals).

Certain spots are packed with tourists flailing around each other like sardines in a barrel of water, but all one has to do is take the nearest side alley, walk a few meters and silence pervades the air. Some alleys are merely as wide as my arm, with laundry swinging from the windows overhead while flower boxes bring color to the fading, painted walls.

There are hundreds of alleys, side canals and tiny bridges. Attempting to navigate this place–even with a detailed map–is a study in futility. I nearly gnawed my hand off in frustration as passageways begat passageways and we were lead down countless dead-end paths. Were we in some sick maze where the Queen of Hearts laughed at our follies from her perch high above?

Mom, please don't drop my Metallica t-shirt in the lagoon

You must sink into Venice. Release yourself into its groove. Stop to breathe, to listen and to feel. That’s when the magic takes over.

Thats when you start to notice the little details: the worker whistling while delivering beer kegs from a small boat to a random hole in the wall, the way the young men step aside to let the old men get their drink at the bar first, the gondoliers shouting across the canal to each other, the artwork from the world-over shoved in every damn crevice, the young boys practicing their machismo, the fish vendor’s hands covered in black squid ink, the stairs that lead to nothing but water, the plethora of local wines that will never leave the area, the simple bar snacks (Cichetti) like anchovies wrapped around olives and speared on a toothpick, a piazza with random pieces of chalk scattered everywhere (inspiring me to sketch on the sidewalk), a sign in the window saying that buying glass from China kills the trade of artisans in Morano, the smitten lovers kissing on the crowded water bus, the tanned faces of the locals looking out over the water for the umpteenth time and the smell that has pervaded the fish market for seven centuries.

Dropping dad off for work

It is a place of magic. It is no wonder that it has arrested the hearts of countless artists. It is a place where man and nature ride a delicate balance, each threatening to overtake the other. To drown the other one first. But somehow, in some wondrously insane way, it works. Each morning the boats hit the waters and the city wakes up to inspire its people again.

It was like looking pure beauty in the face. And the beauty is all in the details.

Va bene, Venizia. Va bene.

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Photos by Kat Bryant

 

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Lapping it up in Lake Como at a backstreet wine bar.  (Pictured:  Vin Santo del Chianti Classico-Az. Agr. San Felice & Barolo Chinato-Cocchi)

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Just arrived in Lake Como.  While we wait for George Clooney’s dinner invite, think we’ll sip some Verdicchio…

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Good for the heart, good for the mind.  It’s horse meat!  Yep, horse meat!  What fine beverage would you pair with this action?

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Just arrived in Verona.  Kat ran out to buy a couple of beers.  Look closely: “Analcolica”.  Way to go, Kat!  A couple of non-alcoholic beers.  Yippee!

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Stumbled upon the local, outdoor wine bar off the Grand Canal in Venice.  Garganega non-filtrate “Fasoli” & Ribolla Giala “Sirch”.  F’in sweet.

Descending the hill of Hermitage, Northern Rhone

We’ve sung Willie Nelson’s “On the Road Again” ten times more than the average Willie fan can muster in a 3-week period.

It’s been an interesting transition being away from home this long.  As each day is so dense, a week ends up feeling like a month.  Learning traffic signs in the moment while zipping along at 110 km/h, or ordering sandwiches at a busy shop with a line of people behind us wondering what’s the hold-up with the douchebags at the front—I may just have to rethink this upon my return to NYC; I’m totally guilty of this.  “You don’t know which way to swipe your Metrocard?!  Get the f out of my way!”

Tonight marks our last night in France (see photo slideshow at bottom).  It’s been a whirlwind three weeks.  21 days of learning how to accomplish the basic things like getting from point A to point B (“wait, there are how many train stations in Paris?!”), getting food in the belly (“I haven’t a clue what that dish is…sounds like lamb.  Oh…it’s apparently…scallops”) and a roof over our head (“why is trying to book a hotel in Venice around Easter time so difficult?”).

It almost feels like a reversion to childhood.  Wandering around in diapers not knowing anything, but with the added curse of being a wise(ish) adult and knowing you don’t know anything.  Trying to communicate today with the pharmacist about needing some “Pepto Bismol” was followed by confused looks and bizarre gestures of me patting my stomach like a deranged Santa Claus.  We’ve become somewhat confident with certain phrases and words—our “Hello, how are you?” and “Goodbye, have a great Sunday” are particularly filled with zest and assurity.

I think my favorite interaction was last week in the Southern Rhone town of Carpentras.  One gracious hotel host asked me in french what type of jam I would like for my toast.  Confidently, I said with a swagger, “Coffee with milk”.  That elicited a nice chuckle from the french couple a few tables away.  Now that I think about it, coffee-with-milk would make an incredible jam for croissants…

Katherine trying to book a hotel in Venice

It’s been a mad dash as we arrived in France with only our accommodations booked in Paris, our first stop.  Our itinerary was loose and we found ourselves trolling through the internet like maniacs to find the next town to crash in with nary a 24-hour window.  Websites like TripAdvisor.com, Booking.com and Rick Steves’ online travel forums have become our trusty friends.  We’ve gotten savvy (amazing what the threat of sleeping in a tiny Peugeot will force a human to conquer) and move into our hotel rooms now like a Special Forces recon team.  Out comes the laptop, the chargers, the converters, the droid phones and the cameras.  Show me a wall plug at 30 meters and I’ll tell you if it’s compatible or not.

As we’re now settling into life on the road (and the fact that we’re only still just beginning this long journey), I’m incredibly humbled and grateful.  That we were able to put together the dreams and resources to make it here, will forever serve as a life lesson that if you want something bad enough, somewhere, sometime you can have it.  It may not be exactly what you envisioned from the start, and it may not end up exactly as you had planned, but with a daily commitment to your vision, anything is possible.

Shit. I swore I left that bottle down here somewhere...

Thank you, France, for your incredible hospitality, your beautiful language (which I’ll never understand), your history, your culture, your strange breakfasts, your denial of shower curtains, your topless beaches, your cheese courses, your aperitifs, your vineyards, your hilltop towns, your castles, your charcuterie, your breads (holy shit, if I’m offered another bread bowl, I will choke myself), your coffee vending machines, your winding & incoherent country roads, your panache, your flair for style, your delicious tap water, your outdoor cafes, your unisex bathrooms, your duck confit, your espressos at midnight, your wonderful family-run hotels, your pâtés, your terrines, your pastries, your Diesel-powered cars, your escargot and your sacred reverance of terroir.

Tomorrow, we enter Italy.  Tomorrow, we start all over again.  Two babies wondering around wide-eyed in the streets.  Hopefully, sans diapers…

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Photos by Kat Bryant

 

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A pretty typical offering of beers in a French bistro (in fact, a lot for draft in this case).  Apparently, beer takes a backseat here.

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There could be worse places for an Irishman to get a sunburn than the French Riviera…

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My puny glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc pales in comparison to Kat’s afternoon beer.

Believe it or not, you can drive your car right up to the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy. No barbed wire, half-starved Rottweilers or retina scans to keep you out. Nope, you can walk directly up to the vines and lie down next to them, if you so fancy (see the insane photo album at bottom).

It’s a near religious experience to stand on their hallowed plots of earth and ponder just what the hell makes them so famous. This is akin to a baseball fanatic being allowed to enter Fenway Park after-hours, waltz right up to home plate, crouch into a batting stance and spit into the sacred dirt at their feet.

Photog on the loose

Over two days, my wife and I—armed with a geeky topography map photocopied from Hugh Johnson’s World Atlas of Wine—stalked the small towns and vineyards of the Cote d’Or. Puligny-Montrachet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, they all unfurled in front of us.

This is some seriously fuckin sacred land and you can feel it in the air. It’s so different than Napa Valley, with it’s glitz and glamour meeting you every step of the way. For the most part, we were alone on the serene vineyard roads in Burgundy (save for the occasional tractor and van of wine geeks glued to the windows).

I drove like a maniac, pulling the car abruptly off the road with no notice, or jetting up a dirt road to climb high up the slopes of the Cote d’Or, itself—a 30-mile long limestone escarpment which runs north to south and is home to some incredibly perfect soil compositions.

 

You do your thing, I'll do mine

Looking out over the vineyards is like looking at grandma’s quilt. Because most vineyards are tiny and have multiple owners (with some holding such small plots that they may only tend a few rows of vines), the different growing techniques are evident. For instance, a few rows may have freshly tilled soil, while its neighbors have tall grasses that have been left to grow wild. One guy decides to angle his rows at a 43 degree angle to the sun while the girl next to him plants hers at a 44 degree angle. Its a convoluted maze and a beautiful mess all at the same time.

Its not always clear why one particular vineyard has been declared “Grand Cru”, while the one right next to it (identical to the naked eye) is classified with a lower distinction. Over time, and with centuries of people tasting the wines from each plot, some have reached a mythical status—and with an astronomical price tag to boot.

Le Montrachet: can't afford to drink it but I can sit next to it.

Our pictoral homage to these legends lies below. For some, this will be pure vineyard porn. For others, they will be merely strips of earth with some plants in them.

For us, though, it was a combination of porn, plants and terroir at its finest. Oh, and a few snail-sightings thrown in for good measure.

You, me and some pesto & garlic will be just right

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Photos by Kat Bryant

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What is this hill in the Northern Rhone called?  I plan on scaling it tomorrow morning if you’re free to join.

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