Bordeaux: Your Ass is on Notice

May 20th, 2010 by

Here once stood the great Chateau Lafite...

It was the shot heard round the world.  Yesterday, Eric Asimov of the NY Times wrote an article that sent shock waves through Bordeaux.  The message:  you’re soon to be on life support.

I feel inclined to write as Paul Grieco, our fearless leader, was pictured in the piece and our wine programs at Hearth and Terroir were discussed.  It was a simple article and yet a brilliant one.

I would have killed to be a fly yesterday on the Gironde River to see the panicked look on the faces of the Chateaux owners as they sipped espressos and overlooked their empires.  Or at least, I hope they were panicked…if the entire Bordelais wine industry isn’t discussing Mr Asimov’s article, then they may be more screwed that they can possibly imagine.

You see, Bordeaux and its wines are falling prey to a massive marketing failure.  They have effectively cut themselves off from the new generations of sommeliers, wine geeks and the average consumer.

Their solid devotees are the collectors and rich “score-chasers” that blindly follow Robert Parker and hunt down their top wines every year like Mercedes collectors do fine cars.  Their wines are snatched off the market and tucked away in temperature-controlled cellars/bunkers around the world only to see the light of day when its time to shock and awe.

The problem with this?  Well, the world has come to see Bordeaux as a playground for the rich, the Monte Carlo of the wine world.  “You gotta pay to play, bitches, and pay dearly!  Looking for value?  Look elsewhere!”

When I first got into wine, I worked at a wine shop in Brooklyn Heights.  Like every other newbie, my studies quickly brought me to Bordeaux and the infamous estates of the Official Classification of 1855.

But I can't even see the front gate?!

Names like Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Latour and Chateau Margaux struck warmth in my heart.  They were dynasties of greatness, wine Meccas, castles to our craft.

But then I saw their price tags.  Holy fuck, I thought, I’ll never be able to even taste these wines!  I felt crushed.  I set about finding alternatives, an entrance through the back door.  There were “second label” wines from these Chateaux, I realized, but they were also out of my paltry salary.  I tore though our stock, getting more and more desperate to learn what all the fuss was about.  But the few we had at an affordable price seemed so far removed from the epicenter of the great Chateaux that I became lukewarm in my zeal.  I was depressed and felt shut out of the greatest wine region in the world.  How would I ever make a place for myself in this business without knowing and experiencing them?

"Buy two barrels of the Margaux! Now, damnit!"

Add to that, I was constantly exposed to clientele that coldly hunted them down and salespeople that snobbishly wielded them like gems I was too uncivilized to understand.   My feelings of exclusion soon became anger.

I soon found the “resistance”–the wine regions that wanted me, the fledgling young wine geek, on their side.  Instead, regions like the Rhone and the Loire fueled my wonderment, soon followed by Spain and Italy.  I left Bordeaux behind.

The sad truth?  Bordeaux is composed of thousands of great wine estates where value and authenticity CAN be found.  But all I saw in my early days were the glitzy ones and the marketing materials that played up this “luxury” lifestyle.  And even today, I still don’t see the small guys, the ones I want to fight for.  Sure, they do one big Bordeaux tasting every year where I could find them, but there seems to be a Spanish tasting in NYC nearly every month!  I can meet the producers first-hand and hear their stories.  After that, I go to bat for them, championing their work.

Behind this wall lies the unseen Bordeaux

Bordeaux has walled itself off from the youthful advocates in this country.  What they need to do is take us passionate people to the countrysides of Bordeaux to show us the greats, as well as the meek.  They’ve put up so many layers of brokers and middlemen that I can’t access the people behind the wines.

It seems to be the opposite problem as that of Australia. Whereas Yellow Tail and other mega-wineries have swallowed the market in such a way that the average consumer doesn’t know great wines exist there (and certainly don’t want to pay for them), Bordeaux has done the opposite.  Bordeaux has convinced the world that nothing but Mercedes and BMWs exist in it’s world.

But I, and most of my sommelier friends in NYC, drive proverbial Volkswagens…

Let's snuggle up in the back seat and drink some Sherry

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Posted in Wine | 10 Comments »

Swizzles Down! The Manhattan Cocktail Classic

May 14th, 2010 by

Photo courtesy of the El Dorado Cocktail Lounge

Fizzle my schnizzle!  Flip my Rick!  Sling my ding!  The Manhattan Cocktail Classic comes to town, kids!

No more Jager shots!

Thats right, fans of the coupe glass.  New York’s first ever multi-day event celebrating the lore, the craft and the rich history of the cocktail kicks off tonight.   Five wondrous days of booze exploration, appreciation and fascination is upon us .

And just like the Burning Man Fesival culminates in a massive Pagan ritual where a multi-storied sculpture of straw is lit on fire, we will use flamethrowers to melt the largest Jagermeister ice luge ever created in defiance of artificial products and mediocrity in our libations.

Tonight, at The New York Public Library, the Gala kicks off at 9:00 pm.  (My guess is not only will there be incredible concoctions to sip, but a Guinness World Record will be set for the “Most handlebar moustaches, vests and plaid pants found under one roof since 1896”).

"Mmm...that touch of lavender syrup is just divine"

An unbelievable amount of knowlege and skill has been assembled and you’ll have front-row access to learn from the industry’s best and brightest.  A full schedule of nearly 70 events (!) can be found here:  Manhattan Cocktail Classic Info

So, get out your ice chippers, your homemade bitters and vermouths, and take a horse-and-buggy down to join the fun.  You don’t want to miss this, Gubna.

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Posted in NYC Events, Spirits | 1 Comment »

James Beard Awards 2010: Race You to the Beer Table

May 7th, 2010 by

Paul Grieco attacks an adoring fan (photo by Kat Kinsman)

On Monday, Lincoln Center was descended upon by the food & beverage community who harbored an insatiable hunger and thirst.    

Between the number of kegs cashed, martinis housed, Champagne guzzled and bites of food gobbled up, if one were to convert the ounces of alcohol and butter consumed to kilowatts, you could have lit the Empire State Building for 48 hours.

The Rat Pack: Matt Stinton (Beverage Director), myself and Jordan Frosolone (Chef de Cuisine) (photo by Kat Kinsman)

The James Beard Awards 2010 came and went in a flurry of tuxedos, ball gowns, facial tucks and a sea of plastic appetizer plates. 

It was a night coupled with a gruelingly long ceremony honoring every facet of the food and beverage industry along with a special Who’s Who of industry royalty who invade Lincoln Center with a desire to reconnect with friends and devour bite-sized morsels like they were last nib-lets of food on the planet (read: “like savages”).    

This year, we at Hearth and Terroir were fortunate enough to have three of our own ragtag crew nominated for awards.  Chef Marco Canora for his cookbook, “Salt to Taste”, Paul Grieco for “Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional” and Steven Solomon for “Best Restaurant Graphics” for his work at Terroir (his second year in a row).  Not too fuckin shabby.    

My journey through the night in a nutshell:    

1) Bubbles with Bobbafett    

I'm the Original Ganster, kid. All others are lame imposters.

Pre-event Champagne and nib-lets at Chez Grieco.  Featuring pre-show entertainment of his son attacking us with a Nerf dart gun while wearing a Bobafett mask (yet he insisted it wasn’t “Bobafett” but some new Star Wars character…yeah, whatever, its Bobafett, kid!  Show some respect!)    

2) The El Guapo Escort    

Steven Solomon: Nominee for Best Restaurant Graphics

Hired-van ride to the edge of the red carpet at Lincoln Center where I’m quite convinced Steven Solomon donned his lucadore mask to a shocked group of photographers and journalists (please send all my photos to my attention immediately).    

3) The Dynamic Trio    

An intensely long, three hour ceremony hosted by Alton Brown, Wolfgang Puck and Lidia Bastianich.  My take on the hosts?  Alton: gets funnier ever time I see him.  (Although, I still can’t watch what has become of Iron Chef America).  Wolfgang: an industry leader and a true professional, but boy does he start to sound like a bizarre Austrian Muppet after a couple of hours.  Lidia:  classy and poised, but somebody please ask her to stand closer than 7 feet from the microphone.  What did she say?  Did you catch that?  Oh, fuck it.    

4) The Heart of the Awards    

The “American Classics Award” is the best.  What a great award and so inspiring to all of us who work in the industry.  The James Beard Foundation spotlights often tiny restaurants found on the back roads of Americana built on passion, hard work and love.  One was a frickin fry shop, for God’s sake, but damn are they inspiring with their devotion, integrity and support of their staff.  And if I’m ever in Alaska, please hold me a table at the Gustavus Inn where I’ll feast on Salmon and Crab pulled from the waters at its front door.    

5)  Shovel-It-In, Slam-It-Back Fiesta    

A James Beard attendee up close

Like hungry wolves being held at the gates, the attendees were released upon the poor souls at the food and drink tables like piranha devouring a cute baby gazelle who happened to fall into the Amazon river.    

6) Craft Beer on the West Side    

Once sufficiently lubricated, our disparate crew rallied into a cohesive army party platoon and made our way to Coliiccio & Sons (Tom won!) where wood-fired pizzas and thirty-odd beer taps flowed like soothing shower heads.  And once again, the poor souls at the bar were mobbed like desperate senior citizens clamoring to drink from the fountain of youth.  Ponce de Leon makes an awesome Pilsner, grandma!    

7) Lighting up Terroir|Tribeca    

And then , the game was truly afoot and it was time to return to our new home in Tribeca to the food, beer and wine chapel where we worship the bounty of the ingredient, the grape and the grain.  An armada of Champagne flutes and wine glasses were strategically  placed on the bar, the only armaments the staff could thrust between themselves and the party jackals that bust in like the culinary SWAT team.    

Ink poisoning in the name of Terroir wine bar (photo by Kat Kinsman)

8) The Long Ride Home    

Hours passed…laughter filled the room.  Friends and fans united.  Revelry was afire.  I managed to slip out sometime around 3 am and got into a cab.  I began to hear: “sir…sir…Sir…SIR” which wouldn’t go away no matter how much I willed my ear drums to ignore the sound.  My eyes opened to reveal a caring and compassionate cab driver.  “Your home”, he said.  And with that , I ascended to my 5th floor palace high in the Queens sky where I cursed whoever the fucking genius is that created the cuff links and button inserts that stood between me and my bed.    

We may not have walked out with any awards but that’s not what its really about.  Its about saluting an industry filled with passionate misfits that work insane hours, who obsess over details, who know how to laugh with their hearts.  And who know how to knock back a pint.  Here’s to you, Mr Beard.    

Maybe next year we can all show up in pajamas and have a sleepover…then we won’t have to go through the agony of tearing off all those layers of clothing at 3 am with a massive bun on.    

James Beard: "Yes, this will be perfect for my hangover..."

 

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Posted in Beer, NYC Events, Spirits, Wine | 2 Comments »

Keg Wine: the Future is Upon Us

Apr 29th, 2010 by

Fun for the whole family!

Year: 2050

“Grandpa, what’s that?”

“Well, that’s a wine bottle, honey”

“A what?”

“Yes, my wine-loving child, a ‘bottle’.  You see, before kegs, people put wine in these silly, heavy bottles.  But then along came Charles Bieler and Bruce Schneider.  They started a company called Gotham Project Riesling in 2010 that changed everything.”

“Wow, Grandpa.  Charles looks dreamy in all those old digital photographs!”

“He is my darling, and I’ll tell you what, Bruce is still quite the lady’s man.”

Today, Gotham Project Riesling is changing the world one daring restaurant and wine bar at a time by proving that world-class wine can come from a keg.

(Design by Steven Solomon. Click on pic to view his site)

And to celebrate this notch in time, we unwittingly put together one of the most ridiculous and vulgar videos of the first glass to be poured from the taps at Terroir | Tribeca.  It’s 8 minutes that descends into madness.

(Oh, and little Sally, you may not wanna watch this.  It gets a little graphic…)

But first, I recently interviewed Charles Bieler about their bold endeavor.

INTERVIEW WITH CHARLES BIELER OF GOTHAM PROJECT RIESLING

What current projects are you involved with in the wine world?

Ah man, I’m almost embarrassed to admit how many projects and how many countries. This is going to sound ridiculous, and it probably is, but here it goes: FRANCE (BIELER PERE ET FILS rosé , and LOU BAR ROU rouge – both partnerships with my father). ARGENTINA (The Show malbec – a partnership with Joel Gott, Roger Scommegna, Trinchero). CALIFORNIA (The Show, Three Thieves, Bandit – all with a partnership I have with Joel Gott, Roger Scommegna and Trinchero Family Estates). WASHINGTON STATE (Charles & Charles, a partnership with Charles Smith), MEXICO (Sombra mezcal – a partnership with Richard Betts) and now NEW YORK STATE (Gotham Project Riesling – a partnership with Bruce Schneider).

How did you and Bruce meet and how did the idea evolve?

I live in NYC and have always wanted to do something that didn’t require getting on a plane and flying somewhere far away! I actually originally reached out out to Bruce to talk about his Potato Barn brand that I felt had more potential than what I was seeing.

As conversations often do, over time the ideas evolved into something totally different – kegs and the Gotham Project. The ideas of kegs had been rattling around in my brain but to pull it off with NY wine I needed someone to help me as I didn’t have any contacts.

Bruce has been making some of the very best NY wines for the past decade and so he was the first call. His answer was an immediate, “hell yeah, let’s do it”.

Who are the people involved in Gotham Project?

The Gotham Project is a 50-50 venture between Bruce and I but with important supporting roles from Steven Solomon (who is helping with all the graphics and over all branding) and Jim Neal (who has been invaluable on the production side of kegging). The team at Michael Skurnik Wines has also been super helpful tasting consultants.

How did you decide on Riesling?

First of all, we LOVE riesling but more importantly, from my perspective riesling is the wine that NY State does best and can best compete with the rest of the world with. We want to offer wines that just aren’t delicious but are priced to compete with the very best in the world at their price points.

What was the process like in sourcing your juice?

Through the relationships Bruce has fostered with New York State wineries and growers over the last decade Bruce knew immediately where he wanted to zero in – east side of Seneca Lake.

Charles Bieler (left) and Bruce Schneider. (Image courtesty of Dr Vino. Click on pic to read his original post, "Finger Lakes Riesling Gets Tanked")

What are your thoughts on the Finger Lakes as an overall region?

I’m really impressed, particularly with riesling. Especially in a vintage like 2009 where there was so much rain there was a plight issue with potatoes and tomatoes. I’m amazed what many were able to pull off.

Where do you get the kegs?

We buy our kegs from a German manufacturer called, FRANKE

How many other companies are involved with wine-in-a-keg projects?

In the San Francisco bay area there are quite a few wineries making kegs for restaurants but there are only a few companies focused just on kegs. While a few companies are looking at a national keg program, with The Gotham Project we are only focused on selling into only NY/NJ/CT for now

Are other countries experimenting with this type of wine vessel?

There must be some others doing it but I think it’s on a very small scale.

Where do you see the future of kegged wine going?

I expect that for the next 6-9 months there will be a lot of people on the side lines watching (both restaurants and wineries) and as people see that it can work, there will be a big expansion, especially in metro areas.

As new simpler and inexpensive tap systems become available that will also help the smaller restaurants who don’t have taps or limited taps. I expect that we will see retailers and caterers getting involved as well. I don’t think it will get as big as beer kegs but there is no reason why it won’t become much more common to see wine on tap.

Any thought of doing different varietals?

Yes, we are developing a sparkling wine to release this fall. More on that later.

Why are kegs important?

There are three key reasons. Firstly, by using a reusable container and eliminating the cost of glass/corks/foils/boxes and filling in bulk, we can reduce our cost of goods by about 20-25%. That’s real savings.

In using a larger format reusable container we create no new waste (the reduce and reuse part of the three R’s).

And lastly, wine in kegs with the proper gas systems are protected from oxidizing so for wines by the glass, the wines stay fresh for months. So often resturants will either face the decision of either serving oxidized wines by the glass or throwing it away.

And now, ladies and gentleman, for your viewing pleasure, a little video of our renegade crew at Terroir | Tribeca in action with the keg:
http://blip.tv/file/3497490

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Posted in G&G Videos, NYC Events, Wine | 9 Comments »

The Oracle Speaks: the Top 50 Craft Breweries

Apr 23rd, 2010 by

 

The Brewer’s Association is a top-secret society composed of beer ninjas, homebrewing warlocks and malt-driven shapeshifters.  Their nerve center/elite training grounds are rumored to be located in an underground bunker some 20 stories below the idyllic streets of Boulder, Colorado. 

For those of us in the beer community, their word is gold.  And, once again, the association has spoken.  With mega-computers and high-speed microprocessors running 24 hours a day, they are uniquely tapped into the craft beer cerebral cortex of the US and capable of compiling valuable data at break-neck speed. 

"Ah, gee! Oskar Blues made the list!"

Just last week, they released their much-anticipated list of the “2009 Top 50 Craft Breweries” which I received like Charlie and his golden ticket to the Chocolate Factory.  I printed the list, folded it up with the lightest of touches (so as not to disturb its prized contents) and carried it to my secret place where I could unfold it and digest it without interruption. 

“Craft breweries” are classified by those having production levels of less than 2 million barrels a year.  So, with no further adieu, the Top 50 Craft Breweries of 2009: 

Top 50 Craft Brewing Companies
(Based on 2009 beer sales volume) 

  • 1  Boston Beer Co. Boston MA
  • 2  Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. Chico CA
  • 3  New Belgium Brewing Co. Fort Collins CO
  • 4  Spoetzl Brewery Shiner TX
  • 5  Pyramid Breweries Inc. Seattle WA
  • 6  Deschutes Brewery Bend OR
  • 7  Matt Brewing Co. Utica NY
  • 8  Magic Hat Brewing Co. Burlington VT
  • 9  Boulevard Brewing Co. Kansas City MO
  • 10  Harpoon Brewery Boston MA
  • 11  Alaskan Brewing Co. Juneau AK
  • 12  Bell’s Brewery, Inc. Galesburg MI
  • 13  Kona Brewing Co. Kailua-Kona HI
  • 14  Full Sail Brewing Co. Hood River OR
  • 15  Stone Brewing Co. Escondido CA
  • 16  Dogfish Head Craft Brewery Milton DE
  • 17  The Brooklyn Brewery Brooklyn NY
  • 18  Abita Brewing Co. Abita Springs LA
  • 19  Summit Brewing Co. Saint Paul MN
  • 20  Anchor Brewing Co. San Francisco CA
  • 21  Shipyard Brewery Portland ME
  • 22  New Glarus Brewing Co. New Glarus WI
  • 23  Great Lakes Brewing Co. Cleveland OH
  • 24  Rogue Ales/Oregon Brewing Co. Newport OR
  • 25  Long Trail Brewing Co. Bridgewater Corners VT
  • 26  The Lagunitas Brewing Co. Petaluma CA
  • 27  Gordon Biersch Brewing Co. San Jose CA
  • 28  SweetWater Brewing Co. Atlanta GA
  • 29  Firestone Walker Brewing Co. Paso Robles CA
  • 30  Victory Brewing Co. Downingtown PA
  • 31  Flying Dog Brewing Co. Frederick MD
  • 32  BJ’s Restaurant & Brewery Huntington Beach CA
  • 33  Odell Brewing Co. Fort Collins CO
  • 34  Rock Bottom Brewery Restaurants Louisville CO
  • 35  BridgePort Brewing Co. Portland OR
  • 36  Lost Coast Brewery and Cafe Eureka CA
  • 37  Big Sky Brewing Co. Missoula MT
  • 38  Stevens Point Brewing Co. Stevens Point WI
  • 39  Mac and Jack’s Brewery Redmond WA
  • 40  Karl Strauss Brewing Co. San Diego CA
  • 41  The Saint Louis Brewery, Inc. St. Louis MO
  • 42  Blue Point Brewing Co. Patchogue NY
  • 43  Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurants Chattanooga TN
  • 44  Oskar Blues Brewery Longmont CO
  • 45  North Coast Brewing Co. Fort Bragg CA
  • 46  Breckenridge Brewery Denver CO
  • 47  Utah Brewers Cooperative Salt Lake City UT
  • 48  Saint Arnold Brewing Co. Houston TX
  • 49  Boulder Beer Co. Boulder CO
  • 50  Bear Republic Brewing Co. Cloverdale CA

This year, there were three breweries that were welcomed to this esteemed group:  Oskar Blues Brewery, Saint Arnold Brewing Co and Bear Republic Brewing Co. 

All hail the Brewer’s Association!  All hail craft breweries! 

Now get out and support them.  Tell em Charlie sent  you… 

"You simply must check out my craft beer waterfall"

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The Moth-Hunting Special Forces Arrive in Napa

Apr 19th, 2010 by

Moth hunter in the vineyards of Napa

There goes one!  Stop it from procreating!  That fucking moth could be the end of us all!

Napa Valley is under siege.  And I don’t mean from gas-guzzling Escalades zipping up and down Highway 29 or from elite Parisian special forces who’ve been sent to steal trade secrets from Mondavi.  No, my friends, by a simple moth known as the European Grapevine moth.

But in the lucrative world of wine, this predator is being hunted down with a vengeance by the brightest agricultural minds the world has to offer.   And how this moth came to be found in the heart of Napa may be the dirtiest secret of all…

Just like the jihadists being hunted by the Green Beret’s night-vision goggles and unmanned drones flown out of Nevada with predator missiles, no resources are being spared to wipe out this pin-headed foe.

Moth larvae feasting on Napa's finest

Last week, a crack team of European entomologists arrived in Napa County to join forces with their American counterparts and share what they’ve learned in fighting this predator in France, Italy, Germany and Chile (regions where the European Grapevine Moth has been waging war on valuable wine grapes for years).

So, what’s at stake?  Well, a whole lot actually.  Considering the moth was first discovered last September when it devoured an entire 9-acre vineyard of the finest grapes Napa has to offer, no one is taking chances in letting it fly into their precious crops and start dropping it’s eggs like bunker-busters over Iraq.

Estimated retail value of California wine sold in 2009 was $17.9 billion, so no one is sitting back idly while this little fucker has its way with their checking accounts.

How do we stop this winged dimwit?  First, you’ve got to figure out how many moths you’re dealing with and how far they’ve spread (using traps strategically spread throughout the region).  Then, you corner them and destroy them.  Be it with sprays, predator pests or pheromones that disrupt their mating cycles (yep, right in the kisser…er…the pricker), the scientists are hard at work.  And even the organic and sustainable farmers are considering losing their low-impact designations to wipe this enemy out.

So just how did the European Grapevine moth end up in Napa so far from home?  Well, that just may be the irony of this whole affair.  As winemakers wait in anxious fear to see if the traps in their vineyards detect a moth in their midst, the finger-pointing has begun to find the culprit who introduced it.  And it just may be their greedy neighbors next door…

“Suitcase smuggling” is the term for illegally bringing vines into the country and is the term that no one wants to admit but all fear could be the cause.  According to the Chicago Sun Times, sneaking in cane-cuttings to clone vines from top French vineyards has been dabbled in time and time again, and is thought to have created some of the most exceptional vineyards in Napa in the 1980’s.  All it took was a pair of trusty shears, a backpack with some hidden pockets and the desire to replicate greatness an ocean away by any means necessary.  Why let your imported vines sit in USDA quarantine for years awaiting approval when you can sneak the cuttings into the country in your jock strap?

In a world where an acre of top fruit can sell for more than $15,000, can greed and deceit by Napa’s own be at the heart of this outbreak?  It’s anyone’s guess at the moment and, in actuality, we may never know…

In the meantime, the fear abounds and the investigators and moth assassins are hard at work.  Watch your back, mothy poo.  They’re gunning for you.

Target acquired: Operation Moth Annihilation activated

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Terroir | Tribeca Beer List Unveiled

Apr 16th, 2010 by

After countless months of planning, dreaming and scheaming, the doors have opened at Terroir | Tribeca.  She’s a stunning belle of the highest caliber.  And she’s gonna take NYC by force.  A force built on passion, irreverence and a commitment to bone-numbingly high standards.

The beer list is my baby.  A collection of my international favorites from around the globe, representing as many of the craft beer havens and local producers as possible.  We ain’t Rattle ‘N’ Hum with its staggering 23 casks, 40 taps and over 100 bottles.  We’re the little engine that could, damnit, and we’ll show you a world of heightened hospitality and a haven of the finest food and drink that will make your head spin with delight and your knickers drop to the floor.

Ladies and gentleman, I’m proud to announce the opening beer list at Terroir | Tribeca:

Grab a seat and let us pour you a glass.

Here’s where you can find us:  MAP.

And if you’ve got any favorite beers you’d like to see on the list, leave me a comment below!

Mrs Katherine Bryant Flaherty & Mrs Katie Grieco at the 2009 James Beard Awards

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Posted in Beer, NYC Events, Wine | 9 Comments »

The Five Story High Beer

Apr 13th, 2010 by

I wonder how long it would take me to consume a beer that’s five stories high?  A month?  A year?  A lifetime?  Maybe I’d get halfway through, swear off beer forever and switch to Riesling…

In the dead of winter of 2009, Stella Artois embarked on The Ritual Project high above the streets of NYC.  (Now, granted I’m not a huge Stella advocate.  In fact, its been years since I’ve purchased one).  But enough about my own tastes because I was definitely impressed by this campaign.

Stella Artois commissioned a group of NYC sign painters (Sky High Murals) to paint the entire 9-step Belgian Pouring Ritual, step by step.  Over 21 days, a documentary crew created a stop-motion film of the painting of the 20-50 foot wall.

And being that a good friend of mine, Chris O’Connor is a master of the stop-motion process (check out: The Amazing Adventures of Captain Chuck), I was intrigued.

I was contacted by Angela Bruno from the documentary crew about the project and was soon swept up in the painter’s world.  Their soon-to-be-released documentary called “Up There” profiles the art form of mural painting which is a dying one that requires incredible patience and skill.

The Ritual Project – start to finish from Jon on Vimeo.

The 9-Step Belgian Pouring Ritual?  Well, it seems like a load of trumped-up pomp and circumstance that definitely wastes precious beer.  But check it out for yourself, as I thought Chris Baird of Baird Brewing Company in Japan had a good post about it on his blog.

But say what you will about Stella, the fact that they supported such an ambitious and unique project deserves a shout-out.  I’d love to share a pint with any of the skilled artists featured in the film.  Just don’t go pouring my beer down the drain please…

The Ritual Project Painter Crew

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NY Brewfest 2010: Get on the Boat

Apr 9th, 2010 by

Calling all East Coast brew geeks!  It’s coming.  A day of sun-soaked, beer-drizzled, hop-tinged, fun-loving craft beer worship is coming soon.  And the only way to get there?  By boat.

That’s right, kids, on Saturday, June 19th, Governor’s Island is going to be overran by beer hounds.  And I don’t mean the Pabst-swilling, Coors Light-guzzling kind.  Nope, I mean the kind that pair their SPF ratings with their IBU rankings.  The kind that relish in flavor and artisan care.  The kind that you want to hang with!  And, really, where else would you put us all on a Saturday afternoon then on our own frickin island?

I will be there leading my fellow cohorts on the Brewfest Water Taxi in stunning renditions of Kumbaya and 99 Bottles of Beer as we approach Craft Beer Island.  If my singing alone isn’t enough to entice you, maybe this will:

  • More than 300 craft beers
  • 100 NY State, East Coast, National and International breweries
  • Live music from NY State Bands
  • Transportation:  Brewfest water taxis leaving from Manhattan, Brooklyn and New Jersey, as well as the Governor’s Island Ferry
  • Elephant races and brewmaster tossing (okay, no elephants, but I may toss a brewmaster in the East River)
  • Tickets: $55 (including transportation) or $75 for the Connoisseurs Session (early admission and access to specialty suds)

Visit nybrewfest.com for more information and to purchase tickets (as well as to demand elephant racing)

Fire up the water taxis.  You’re gonna need all hands on deck for this one.  And if you hear me singing slightly off-key, I may just need a little liquid re-tuning.  Feel free to bring me over a glass of hop-filled love and let’s harmonize over an old Irish sea shanty.

A View from aboard the NY Brewfest Water Taxi

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Posted in Beer, NYC Events | 9 Comments »

Biodynamic: Tuning Vineyards into the Cosmos?

Apr 7th, 2010 by

Leflaive.  Palacios.  Joly.  DRC.  The list of heavy-hitter winemakers who’ve embraced Biodynamic farming goes on and on.  In fact, if I had an ever-ticking stopwatch like the one at Union Square, it just might accurately reflect the number of biodynamic wineries popping up each day.

I recently had a piece published on Palate Press entitled, “Biodynamic Vineyards: Cosmic Bridge or the Turf of Witch Doctors?“, which has lead to some interesting reactions (see the “comments” section).

The word “biodynamic” has been bandied about the biz for years and, while mostly misunderstood, it has become a buzz word in the wine world.   As consumers get more “green-savvy” and clamor for the latest and greatest, most organic and eco-friendly foods and wines, one sees it and hears it everywhere.

Before a couple of months ago, I actually knew very little about the actual processes behind biodynamic farming.  But when I was appproached by Palate Press to do an article on biodynamic wines, I wholeheartedly accepted the challenge to learn more.  I had no idea of what I was getting into.

Over the course of writing the piece, my eyes were opened to a fascinating world of madly passionate disciples and angry sceptics who denounced their (seemingly) bizarre ways.  Biodynamics now seems much bigger than “natural” winemaking and, instead, more of a philosophy about the connection of one’s grapes to the entire planet and the cosmos surrounding us.  Deep?  You bet your britches.

And, like Nicolas Joly, who I was fortunate enough to help host at Hearth for a tasting of his wines last month, I’ve begun to wonder if vines are indeed “antennas to the universe”…

Nicolas Joly plowing

I’m excited to share my piece with you all.  Big thanks to Meg Houston Maker, who in addition to being Executive Editor of Palate Press, also writes the great Maker’s Table.  She challenged me to dig deeper and to hone my own thoughts on the topic.  I grew to respect her not only as a wonderful editor but as an equally fascinated colleague who became swept up in this beguiling niche of the wine world right along with me.

Am I convert to biodynamics?  I don’t know.  Am I more respectful and curiously intrigued?  Absolutely.

What do you think, fair readers?  Feel free to share your comments on biodynamic winemaking here or to comment directly on the Palate Press site.  I’m eager to hear your thoughts…

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Grub & Grog: the Ultimate Social Glue

Apr 2nd, 2010 by

BrewYork, March 2010 photo by Joe Postma

Something special happens when people clink a glass or break bread together.  It’s primal.

I was reminded of this when I read a post on Simplybeer.com called “Beer People are Good People”.  Peter, the author, made the point that some of the most generous people he’s come across are in the beer world.  And it got me thinking…what if it’s not the love of beer that bonded them together, but the fact that he probably had shared a pint with them in the past?

I recently met Peter, along with a diverse group of homebrewers, beer bloggers and all around hop-geeks at a monthly meeting of a group called “BrewYork“.  Never having spoken in person, I was a bit apprehensive sitting down at a table with a large group who seemed to know each other quite well, and I was a bit nervous.  Would we get along?  Would we have anything to talk about?  Would I would have to shank a fool?

I brought my requisite two beers and sat down timidly.  And in mere moments, the conversation was flowing.  I soon thought, these are my people!  Our eyes were eagerly darting around the table at the bottles of beer like kids voraciously scanning their presents under the tree, and the excitement was palpable.  We were in search of new beers, new flavors and new friends.   And over the next few hours, we formed a bond.  But was it the love of beer that bonded us or the experience of drinking together?

BrewYork, March 2010 photo by Joe Postma

If you look at pub culture in England or listen to people asking each other, “wanna get a drink or a bite after work?,” you’ll see its a uniting force.  The mere act of sitting down together to eat and drink creates bonds.

I was shocked when I lived in England to learn that, be you drinker or non-drinker, everyone went to the pub.  It was the heart of the community.  It’s where business was done, gossip was shared and relationships were cemented.  It was a beautiful thing.  (The mixing of cider and lager, aka “the snakebite”, however, was perhaps the most god-awful elixir ever created by man).

It must go back to the days of humans running around in disparate groups, chasing Woolly Mammoths across the plains and squatting by the fireside for warmth.  In times of trouble, opposing groups would sit down, pass roasted meats between themselves and share sips from their sheep-stomach wineskins and all would be well.

Just look at President Obama.  We all said, “a beer summit? Is he fucking serious?”  But you know what?  He was on to something and it eased tensions.  Smart man.  (Granted, he drank Bud Light.  I mean, really?  Of all the beers you could choose, Obama?  Really!?  But that’s for another day…)

So, with that in mind, I propose you reach out to your enemies, invite them to hunt down an antelope and roast it over a fire while passing around some craft beer (which you must drink out of appropriate glassware, of course.  What are you, savages?)  You’ll be friends in no time.

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Posted in Beer, NYC Events | No Comments »

(Mocking) My St. Patty’s Bavarian Beer Tasting

Mar 30th, 2010 by

Like any good Irishman, I gave homage to the beer on St Patrick’s Day (and, like any good Irishman, it didn’t involve green food coloring).  But unlike a good Irishman, it didn’t involve Stout or the hailing of the all-powerful Guinness.  It involved Bavaria.  And for posterity sake, i decided to film the event.  Little did I know at the time, but my fair wife would have other plans for the final video…

While completely inappropriate timing for St Patrick’s Day, I dove in to taste five Bavarian beers in an attempt to source a couple of new ones for my lists at Hearth and Terroir.

Pretty much a world away from the styles and customs of Irish beer, Bavaria is in a world of its own.  The largest state in Germany, Bavaria lies in the Southwest of Germany, and calls the beer-soaked steets of Munich its capital.

The following were the beers:

  • Reutberger Export Dunkel
  • Reutberger Helles Bock
  • Schonramer Festbier
  • Hopf Helle Weiss
  • Hopf Weiser Bock

Reutberger

The nuns of the Reutberg Cloister have been brewing beer from their own recipes, and according to the guidelines set forth by the Reinheitsgebot German purity law, since 1677. They brew approximately 7000 liters a day.  (That’s right, kids, brewed by nuns.  Gotta love it.  I want to see these ladies go head to head against the famous monks of Belgium).

Hopf

Founded in 1892 by the great grandfather of the current owner, Hans Hopf. It was his great grandfather, a chemist, who discovered the strain of yeast that is still used in their beers to this day. They produce approximately 500,000 bottles anually.  Hopf has won the last 2 German Agricultural Society Awards for best brewery in Germany, an award given once every 10 years.  (Pretty cool stuff to be brewing with great-grandfather’s yeast…)

Schonramer

Located in the village of Schonramer, about 15 kilometers northwest of Salzburg. Eric Toft is the brewmaster. He was born and raised in Wyoming, but has lived and worked in Germany for the last 25 years. All Schonramer beers use a single barley variety called Barke, and use only aroma hop varieties.  (As my former neighbor from out west, Eric, I formally invite you to join me on a horseback trek through Yellowstone National Park; but you have to bring the beer).

An incredible array of artisan, hand-crafted beers, they are all available from Uplifters Spirits.  Check them out.

As initially mentioned, what started out as an attempt to document my tasting notes, became something quite different in the end.  The lesson learned?  Be careful letting your wife edit the footage on her own.  She may just try to play you out…

httpvhd://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgsppnsrHjE

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Posted in Beer, G&G Videos, Reviews | 14 Comments »

Mezcal: Adios Worm! (written by Kelley Slagle)

Mar 19th, 2010 by

Ah Mezcal, poor Mezcal, so misunderstood.
For decades, you sit there, collecting dust,
a bottle, a worm, no one will drink.
Then the rare occasion, someone is dared,
the bottle is opened, passed around,
every drop is gone, even the worm,
it doesn’t end well.
Ah, but then I saw it, the bottle behind,
hidden from the Gringos, saved for the Oaxacans,
for the occasion of the day, they say,
“Para todo mal, Mezcal. Para todo bien, también.”

(“For all things bad Mezcal. For all things good, as well.”)

Welcome to the new age of Mezcal. A lot has changed and, yet, everything has stayed the same. It comes from a tradition of family artisanship handed down from father to son.

With few exceptions, this is a spirit that is produced the same way it was 400 years ago; it comes from the earth and the people, from tradition and reverence for the land. And the worm?  A marketing gimmick from the 1950’s to mask the chemical taste of poorly-produced mezcal.

Mezcal is…

  • …an Agave spirit from Mexico; the D.O. (Denominación de Origen) allows for it to be produced in 7 states, but most often you will find it from Oaxaca.
  • …90% of the time made from Agave Espadin (the genetic mother of Blue Agave) but can also be made with up to 28 different varieties of Agave.
  • …roasted in an underground, wood-fired pit for several days (just like they did centuries ago), where it absorbs the earth and the wood’s smoke.
  • …made by using a burro- or horse-powered millstone that crushes the roasted agave to extract the juice.
  • …fermented in open, wooden vats with wild airborn yeast.
  • …distilled twice by putting both the juice and the solids in the pot still.

Mezcal is not…homogenized and industrialized.

Del Maguey Tobala

This small, wild, mountain Maguey (agave) is smaller and has shorter, broader leaves than the cultivated Espadin or Weber Blue, taking about eight of its piñas (hearts) to equal one piña from the other varieties. The pueblo elevation is around 8,200 feet, with a mountainous, tropical microclimate. The producer leaves the roasted hearts buried for one month before fermenting and distilling.

Sombra Agave de Oaxaca

Sombra is made from organic Agave Espadin grown near the village of San Luis del Rio at an elevation of 8,000 feet in a hot valley with steep slopes.  The piñas are roasted in the pit with a mesquite fire for three to five days.

Los Danzantes Reposado

From the town of Santiago Matatlan at an elevation of 6,000 feet.  The distiller of Los Danzantes talks about making sure the Maguey “do not suffer” during production.  This translates to keeping the process slow and respectful of the plant and the land…even playing classical music during fermentation to make the yeast happy! Aged in French oak barrels for one year.

Ilegal Reposado

From the Tlacolula-Mitla Valley at an elevation of 5,500 feet. They use less mesquite in the pit to showcase the flavors of the Espadin. The reposado is aged three to seven months in charred, new American oak barrels.

Fidencio Mezcal – Sin Humo (no smoke)

This new Mezcal is made by a fourth generation Mezcalero in Santiago Matatlan, where he is challenging tradition while still making a hand-crafted, artisinal product. The estate-grown agave are cooked in a neutral-heat oven for three days; only the juice is fermented (no solids) and then distilled twice (these methods are closer to the making of Tequila, rather than traditional Mezcal).

——–

(This is a guest article by Kelley Slagle)

A former chef, Kelley realized her passion for seasonal and market ingredients was best expressed in the liquid form.  Now a mixologist/bartender based in NYC, Kelley’s passion for all-things-fermented is currently expressing itself in homemade vinegars, the study of Agave and a quest for the unique and hand-crafted.

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Posted in Reviews, Spirits | 6 Comments »

A Taste of: Malheur 12° Quadrupel

Mar 12th, 2010 by

Quadrupel, Malheur 12°, Brouwerij De Landtsheer NV, Buggenhout, Belgium

(12.0% alc)

The Belgians don’t pussyfoot around with their beer.  Not only is their country regarded as the Holy Grail for beer lovers, but they have a penchant for naming their beers with an ironic sense of danger that will draw a gasp from the most hardened nun.

Why name your beer “Adam’s White Light IPA” when you came name it after the Devil (Duvel), Lucifer, Satan or after a brutally debilitating case of alcohol withdrawal that causes a physical onslaught (Delirium Tremens)?  That’s right, people, walk on the dark side with the Belgians!  Ride the razor’s edge to hell!  Drink the devil’s saliva!

With that in mind, I was introduced to a Belgian beer last week that seemed straight out of the Devil’s lair, itself.  Such wildly delicious flavors and such deceitful drinkability that it fully masked its high-alcohol pitchfork.  Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the Malheur 12°.  Meaning “misfortunate” in Belgian, I’ll be damned if it was.  It was spectacular.

So, there my lady and I were having a bite at our local haunt, Sanfords, when we started geeking out on beer talk with Gus Karalekas.  Now Gus and his brother, Chris, own the joint and they don’t mess around.  These have to be two of the savviest restaurant operators in Astoria and they have one of the sickest, most value-driven beer and wine lists in the city.  Their prices on everything from half bottles of vino to rare beer finds are mind-boggling.

Gus is telling us about some of his latest beer finds, when out of nowhere, he gets a devilish glint in his eye.  (You always know that moment when a beer geek talks about their latest liquid fascination…the breath quickens, the heart races and the gaze becomes fixed like a gargoyle).  We knew he was up to something.  He ducked away and came back with an unassuming bottle of Malheur 12° from Belgium.

Emanuel “Manu” De Landtshee is the owner of Malheur brewery.  He opened it in 1997, but only after it had been closed around World War II, and that after having been in his family for six generations.  When his father passed in 1991, Emanuel followed his father’s dream to reopen the brewery and restore it to its former greatness.  And with it, he brought his own sense of experimentation.

The Malheur 12° is a Quadrupel style that takes its inspiration from the great Trappist brewers.  As you may have guessed, its a souped-up, hot rod version that’s bigger and badder than the Dubbel and the Trippel (its Belgian siblings).  Clocking in at a whopping 12% alcohol, its a wolf in sheep’s clothing because you don’t suspect its power.  Slightly sweet, it unfolds in unctuous layers.  With notes of Concord grapes rolled in Cocoa powder it will sneak up on you.  Malty caramel flavors are reminiscent of a Snickers bar rolled up in grape jelly (just like the kids like it, you crazy demon you).

If you’re up for beers in Queens, come see me and we’ll ride on Beelzebub’s train to Sanford’s front door where we’ll be greeted by an imp wearing a red suit and offering a Malheur and a discount on souls (I hear they’re quite in demand).  Just keep your eyes on his pitchfork…they’re a wily lot, them imps.

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Posted in Beer, Reviews | 3 Comments »

Brew Day Gone Bad…

Feb 24th, 2010 by

Our latest homebrew: Penicillin Ale

They say that any day brewing is a good day.  I couldn’t agree more (well, except for all that pesky sanitizing—that can be a real bitch).  However, a good day brewing can go sour.  And for us this weekend, it did.

Dead yeast?  Nope.  A broken carboy smashed all over our apartment?  Nope.  A boil-over volcano that dumped hot, syrupy mess all over our stove top?  God, I wish.  No, my friends, we were bested by a biological enemy.

Watch our video to see the thrilling conclusion…let’s just say its best to use fresh ingredients.  Oh, and refrigeration.  Refrigeration is important.  Especially when your NYC apartment is hotter than Havana on an August afternoon.

httpvhd://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKEWhkNNKmA&feature=channel

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Posted in Beer, G&G Videos, NYC Events | 19 Comments »

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